Mountains And Moonshine
A Tour Through West Virginia and Kentucky
Saturday, October 21, 2023
Mountains and Moonshine (M&M) Day1- The Rideout
Pyrat is a tuned up and new tires are scrubbed in nicely. I'm finding there are only a few ways to "get outta town" and I'm still searching for the fastest, most direct route without getting on the superslab.
(A small appetizer before the main entré)
Sunday, October 22, 2023
M&M Day2- The Twenties and Triple Nickle
Uhh... nuthin' to say but WOW!!!!
This was the most continuously fantastic riding day ever.
This trip REALLY started once I made it to Catoctin Park in Thurmont, MD. As always, a beautiful ride (ruined by cagers) but nice foliage through the entire park. But the REAL treat of this leg was Rt50 west of Romney WV.
Just a stunningly fantastic road!! There should be some "Dragon"-esque name for this segment. I'm not one to re-ride previous routes but this would definitely be an exception. Well paved and signed, super technical with challenging elevation changes. Only downside was that it came late in my day. The wind on this segment was brutal with ranges from 10-18mph and gusts up in the 30s. Temps ranged from the high 40s up to 60 for the entire day. Finally rolled in to Fairmont WV at dusk. Found food at a Cracker Barrel and was asleep almost before I hit the bed. Temps overnight going into the 30s (WTH?!?!).
Not that it started out that way. Woke up to dense fog and 38°... time for another coffee. The mist burned off and the temps got into the 40's and the day is underway.
A short warm-up (literally) stretch down to Rt 20 and we’re off and running. Followed north up to New Martinsville and connected to 255 over to the southbound Rt26 to Marietta. Both of the 20s are Butler Roads and they didn't disappoint.
A hydration and food stop in Marietta and then over to Ringgold for the 555 (Triple Nickle) run down to Parkersburg.
To be honest, the entire day was just one “twistie after swoopie after sweeper and repeat” that I can hardly remember details other than it feels like I could just ride home now and the trip would still be a HUGE success.
This is a MUST RIDE excursion for anyone on this side of the Rockies!
Monday, October 23, 2023
M&M Day3 - Logan's run
A better start to the morning with more acceptable temps. Running out of Parkersburg on Rt47 over to Sweet 16 south all the way down to Gauley Bridge.
The plan was to take The Talon on the east side of the New River but the road was milled and getting paved so no-go. Too much of a wait behind an endless line of traffic that promised a blistering 10mph slog on a future lovely run.
Whoever does this ride later this year is in for a treat!
Cathedral Falls is right at the beginning of The Talon.
I was thankful for the dry weather but these would be spectacular with more runoff. Had to backtrack north to Montgomery and then down the west side.
However, the riding gods smiled and gave me the mirror of the morning... Ran down Rt61 to Oak Hill and then made the final push into Logan, WV.
The final several miles were all big slab but the ride through giant carved mountains was a great way to finish off the day.
Terra and Ellwood ready to run The Talon
Tuesday, October 24, 2023
M&M Day4- Red River Gorge
Today's target was Red River Gorge but just getting there was sublime.
Miles and miles of technical back roads started off the day. A section of slab in KY that is Mountain Parkway, a lovely ride for cruisers. Huge sections are still under construction. Obviously, KY taking full advantage of the infrastructure $$ that came their way.
By a stroke of luck while searching for fuel, I got on a deserted, well paved, smooth winding side road that paralleled the slab and got to really ride. Pretty sure there was another rider imprisoned in a Subaru on the slab since they were matching my "slightly-less-than-70mph" speed and I heard him honk when our paths diverged. Poor bastard!
Hope it wasn't too painful to watch sequestered behind a steering wheel instead of a front fork.
Finally back to the road and up to several lookouts including Sky Bridge.
This also had a hike if you wanted to be UNDER the arch, or, you can walk across the top of the rock bridge.
This is for the sure-footed as it is a life-ending drop on either side and no safety barriers. That's how they rock things in Kentucky (pun intended).
Finally into RRG with the first stop planned for Creation Falls. Not sure I did enough research... the ride into the parking lot was 3 miles of twisty, leaf-covered dirt road and then there was a significant hike after parking the bike. Didn't happen. It was pretty warm and I just didn't have the time.
Continuing on, the smooth swoopy narrow road then goes through Nada Tunnel.
The damn thing came up fast without signage or pulloff. It is a one-way-only narrow carved hole through solid rock.
You ain't pulling a camper through there! Not even sure how a big pickup truck would make it. Once out of the RRG area, the day wound down with a challenging run down KY66. This was a SPECTACULAR piece of riding heaven that follows the Red Bird River south to Pineville. Then the final run down 25E into Middlesboro. A fantastic day!
Wednesday, October 25, 2023
M&M Day5- The Shortest Distance
I'm sure it's on a t-shirt or bumper sticker but I've never seen it, I just live it.
"The shortest distance between two points CAN NOT be ridden on a motorcycle".
Fiery sunrise in Middlesboro
That sums up the day. Middlesboro to Williamsburg, both in Kentucky is a 42mile trip on Google Maps.
However, the REVER way of riding had the day at 257 miles and a fair bit of up/down. Rt74 in KY became 90 in TN. Had planned to go up to Chimney Rocks at Cloud Mountain but the road was closed.
A nice run from LaFollette down to Knoxville for a quick stop at Triumph of Knoxville for help with an annoying technical issue.
James was AWESOME and I was fixed and out the door before I could even eat some lunch out of my pack.
More running west and back north up to SR154 (TN) that became (KY) 167 after Pickett State Forest and the final swoop back east on 92.
A solid day!
James, a new member of the Pyrat Crew
Thursday, October 26, 2023
M&M Day6- High Knob and The Woodbooger
If that's not the name of a Bluegrass Band, it damn-well should be!!
Today was the continued adherence to the "Shortest Distance" principle.
A delicious curvy ride up Rt11 up to 421 and then a curve back south to Pennington Gap and up to High Knob in Jefferson National Forest.
Return ride down 1/2 of the access road with a stop off at Flat Rock and the only government-recognized Woodbooger Sanctuary in the world. Who knew???
The observation tower reminded me of the same arrangement on Mt Mitchell in North Carolina.
The ride up was a series of tight, leaf covered switchbacks but well worth the effort. A HUGE expanse best captured on video but the pano shots look pretty good.
Flat Rock Overlook
Friday, October 27, 2023
M&M Day7- The LONG Haul
Saturday, October 28, 2023
M&M Day8- Homeward Bound
Got back on the twisty track and up to Grundy then down to Tazewell. I saw a previous hotel stay from last year after sliding down the Back of The Dragon in Hungry Mother State Park.
Up past Bluefield State University and more winding roads along the New River headed north. Stopped at an overlook in Sandstone. Awesome view of the river... many memories of river running in my kayak days. Occurs to me that I traded a 2-bladed paddle and a cocoon of kevlar for 2-wheels and a handlebar. More northing on the Wilderness highway and finally had to hit some slab to get in to Elkins before dark. BIG ass day!
This was a get-home day. Morning opened with light rain and cool in the upper 50s. Loaded up and geared for the wet. Mist/fog, light rain, now-soaked leaves covering West Virginia mountain roads like ice are not the optimum combo for spirited riding. I AM "The Adjustable Rider"…. thank you YCRS!
This was longest single day ride to date and I'm pretty sure I couldn't have done much more.
Keeping in mind, these are NOT slab miles, these are twisty mountain roads with massive elevation changes. Some were ruined by cagers but, for the most part, one of the Top3 most physically challenging riding days for me so far. Took an accidental detour and then realized I was on a previously ridden piece of pavement... Sacrilege!
Past Seneca Rocks early and the day opened up after Winchester. Was able to peel off the rain gear and cold-weather gloves.
The final hundred miles was a task to stay focused and not reflect on all the aspects of the adventure. It was my shortest "big trip" but definitely pushed my envelope; the entire reason to do these journeys. I hadn't even gotten my packs off the bike before my brain started thinking "what's next??"
